Monday, November 30, 2015

Directions to Jensen reservoir ice climbing:

Drive through Magrath -> south on highway 62. (Wind your way through town to the south end of Magrath past the municipal park... at Pothole creek bridge, track your mileage going south for 7.3 km.)

Turn right on Township road 50 dirt road for *1.9* km

Turn left onto the irrigation canal driving bank. Follow the irrigation canal until you arrive at the spillway.

Looking downstream (into the valley), hike on the right side of the spillway to the bottom and follow to the icefall formed by seepage through the outlet gate.

Instead of hiking to the bottom, you can rappel or set top ropes by girth hitching webbing to the steel pipes extending out of the concrete outlet tunnel to the right of the main spillway chute. It will take a short rap down maybe 10 metres to the top shelf then setting up a proper top anchor with screws or V-threads in the ice.

 Click here to see on google earth

Or click here to see C. Goble's  Jensen ice climbing page on the internet wayback machine

Thursday, August 06, 2015

Abbot Pass trip, day 3 (Fuhrman ledges route from the hut to Lake Louise)

The Fuhrman Ledges was a great descent route from Abbot Pass to Lake Louise. From Lake Louise, we hitched a ride to our car at the staging area for Lake O'Hara.  Took us about 6 hours.
I didn't take any photos on the actual ledges, which were wildy exposed but extremely cool. It was like something out of Lord of the Rings, you could not see the route from afar until you were actually on it.
There were 3 areas that were protected by cable and a couple of tricky exposed spots that we solo'd that are worth considering protecting with a belay.
Crossing glacier near hut

Past glacier and shooting gallery of rockfall from Lefroy



Finding the start of the ledges and one of 3 cables
End of the ledges near the scree descent to boulderfields and Lefroy glacier / Victoria glacier

Crossing the gravel covered lower Victoria glacier

Looking back at the Fuhrman ledges and ascending to the Plain of 6 glaciers trail




We all hopped into the lake for a quick swim - it was cold but so refreshing!