Saturday, July 27, 2019

Brenta spire attempt and Eastpost spire




















Pigeon Spire, Bugaboos ACC trip 2019



Early morning start! Got up at 3:30 AM to help Matt prepare the breakfast for 4 AM. We were on our way in the dark by headlamps

Working our way up towards Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. Snow cover was great, there was not too much concern about rock fall but we still decided to come back via the other side of Pigeon (in effect we circumnavigated Pigeon and Snowpatch spires).

Looking up the start of the Kain route on Bugaboo spire


Working our way towards Pigeon spire (Pigeon Spire on the left, Howser on the right)



All smiles on this day

Rope Teamin' with Mark Z. Couldn't have asked for a better partner.

The Jensen's having some sweet summit time with apprentice guide Ben Paradis.

Cat M. rappelling off the summit

The Jensen's working their way down Pigeon spire with Ben.



Howser Towers on the left, Bugaboo spire far right


We had some adverse weather blow in out of no where and things looked quite grim for awhile but luckily things cleared up and we did not get caught out in a thunderstorm

ACC Trip to the Bugaboos





















Takakkaw Falls, Yoho National Park

Takakkaw Falls with Matt and Chad. A fantastic and challenging adventure! 12 pitches of fun climbing, wet rock from rain and spray, route finding and the 100 metre long cave above the falls - this day had it all. 

Matt had done the climb before and led us through... The route has been retro-bolted and there is a sweet bolted line close to the corner... it was wet so we still plugged gear for about 40 m directly under the big roof in an attempt to avoid wet rock (still had some slippery moves to make). 

The 100 metre cave above the falls was a fun bonus at the top, a surprisingly tight squeeze (Matt and I forgot headlamps, it was quite rough going in the dark following Chad). One more pitch above the cave on the far side and we were above the falls in the upper valley and soon on our way rappelling and retracing our tracks to the trail below. 

Notes to self: 1. Rap with both ropes or bring a 70 metre ropes next time for rapelling! One of the first rappels from the top was a bit short (somehow Matt dealt with it, being the first guy down... Chad and I added a rope at the point to the system and had no issues with two - 60's). 

2. Has been heavily retro-bolted but still need a rack, bolts are sparse on the first pitch (I think we slung a horn). Route finding is still quite interesting, despite all the bolts.